Identifying what size pants to buy should be straightforward. And we often advise customers that a good starting point is to purchase the size they usually buy.
But you’re probably here because brands can have big differences in how they fit, and you want to go deeper in getting it right.
We’re here to help. Here is our ultimate guide to men’s pant sizing, for both Bluffworks or any brand.
Why Sizing Men’s Pants Is Hard
You’ve probably had the experience of not being able to wear the same size pant in two different brands. And it’s frustrating. To understand why, we need to acknowledge that the waistband measurement of a men’s pant doesn’t match its size. A size 32 pant doesn’t measure 32 inches.
Say what? Yup.
Why Men’s Pant Sizes Aren’t Standard
When men’s pants were worn super high around a guy’s “natural waist”, those pants actually measured 32 inches for a size 32. Think of what fashion looked like in the 1930s.
In the 1960s, when guys began wearing their pants lower, the garment no longer measured 32 inches. But, manufacturers still wanted their customers to be able to buy their same size 32, so they didn’t change their labels.
That’s why most size 32 pants measure at least 34 inches in the waist.
For the full story -- including an actual pant pattern from the 1930s – see Why Pant Measurements Don't Match Their Waist Size.
How to Measure Your Waist for Pants
The best approach for determining your pant size is to measure your waist.
A flexible tape measure works best.
Unfortunately, the rigid construction tape measure sitting in your garage won’t work. If that’s all you have, use a shoelace or length of string and place it against your tape measure to get the measurement.
Measure at the point where your pants typically hit, ideally wearing only underwear. You can shoot for where you expect the middle of your waistband to be with the tape measure horizontal all the way around. The tape should be taught, but not overly tight. If using a piece of string, be sure not to pull a narrow string too tight, as it can sit tighter on layers of fabric than a wider tape or waistband would.
Once you have your number, consult our pant fit chart to reveal your size. Bluffworks pants come in waist sizes of 1” increments to achieve a more precise fit.
In addition, many of our pants incorporate stretch and a flexible waistband. To learn more see Stretch Waistbands Compared.
Now that you know your waist, let’s look at inseam.
How to Measure Your Inseam For Pants
From the many conversations we’ve had with customers over the years, guys most often know their inseam length. A pant’s inseam measurement is closer to its stated size, and as a result more consistent across brands.
If you would like to measure, the approach is to put on a pair of pants that fit well. To measure your inseam, begin with a pant that fits OK in the rise (or crotch), coming in close to how you like to wear them.
Wearing the pant, measure from the lowest point of the crotch to your ankle bone, assuming this is where you want your pant to end.
Bluffworks inseams are offered in even 2” increments. But, a tailor can easily alter any of our pants. Most dry cleaners have a tailor on site who can perform this alteration with a quick turnaround.
With both your waist size and inseam identified, now it’s time to choose your fit.
Pant Fit Guide: Regular, Tailored or Slim?
Bluffworks pants are offered in three fits to achieve the comfort you need.
- Regular Fit is usually worn by guys with larger legs, butt, hips or fuller calves. They want or need the extra room for comfort.
- Slim Fit is somewhat in-between and works for guys who have fuller glutes or thighs but want a more narrow leg opening (and also don't need room in the calf).
- Tailored Fit provides a trimmer silhouette and works for men who don’t require extra ease in the butt, thighs or calves.
For a general comparison, compared to a size 32 Regular Fit:
- The Tailored Fit is ¼” trimmer in the hip, ½” less in the thigh, about ¾” smaller in the knee and 1” more narrow in the leg opening for a size 32.
- The Slim Fit is similar to Tailored, but reduces an additional ¼” in the hip, 3/4” in the thigh and ½” more narrow leg opening.
You can see that the difference between Tailored and Slim fits is the most subtle. In fact, our most popular pant - the Ascender Chino - is currently offered in Regular and Tailored Fits, but not slim. Most customers wear Tailored just fine instead.
